Indian jewellery designing

Indian jewellery designing, how to make jewellery, make your own jewellery, making silver jewellery, making bead jewellery, jewelry making equipment


 How to make jewellery

A to Z tips for expert jewerllery designing
When designing a piece of jewellery for an individual, many aspects should be kept in mind- the person whom you are designing for, and particular shapes, styles, and colors for that particular type of personality, essential requirements and limitations necessary to make the piece comfortable and functional. If these aspects are kept in mind, your client will have a piece of jewellery that will fit her individual personality, way of life, and be most becoming to her appearance. In this way the client will acquire jewellery that can become an integral part of her wardrobe and remain a cherished possession for many years and perhaps many generations. The first and foremost thing to be remembered is :

Preferences of Design :
The first important point is that the person for whom you are designing is a male or female. Knowing this would make the work easier and you can design the piece accordingly. We must also note the client's age factor i.e., child youth or old person while designing. Secondly, we need to know the type of jewellery piece required, what is it i.e. ring, earring, pendant, brooch, or necklace? This is the most important point which is needed to be remembered during designing any jewellery.
Then basic variations are there-should it be real or costume jewellery?

Theme & Occasion:
After deciding the type of jewellery piece, a designer should know the customer's choice of design. Some time the customer wants the design on a particular theme, for example Valentine theme, musical, ocean or it may be the love theme.
Then we must design on that particular theme, keeping in mind recent trends.
This also matters as to when the customer wants to wear it and on what occasion-whether it is for Engagement, Wedding, Birthday, Anniversary, Valentine's day, Deepawali, Idd, Christmas or Evening party or regular wear. So the designer has to design jewellery accordingly.

Exact Size of the Jewellery Piece :
Some jewellery pieces need a certain size to wear i.e. Ring, Bangles, Bracelets, Necklaces, etc. Ring Size may be 5 us to 13 us (15.7 to 22.2 m.m.). Use a ring that determines the required ring size. Place this ring over the nearest size circle. The inner edge of the ring should align with the outer edge of the circle. If your ring appears to fit between two sizes, buy the larger size. Women's Standard Necklace Sizes can be 16" Choker length, 17-18" will reach the collarbone and bead string - 30" Below the chest and for male's Standard Chain Sizes can be 18" Base of the neck for smaller neck sizes, 20" to collarbone. The most common length for the average size man, 22"to 24" A few inches below the collarbone. Similar to ring and the necklace bracelet must be designed according to a particular size. The standard bracelet size is 71/4" to 7V2", Average woman's wrist 81/2", Average man's larger wrist -9". So keep in mind the size factor too. The design has to be sized accordingly.

METAL:
It is important to sketch out the design before it is converted into the real jewellery piece, hence the designer must show metal rendering in the design i.e. what is the choice i.e. gold, silver, platinum, alloy, brass or any other metal. Jewellery is Made of various materials available. While high-quality and aesthetic pieces are made with precious metals, lesser real and costume jewellery is made from less-valuable materials. If your customer wants to buy gold jewellery, the first thing to keep in mind about it is the word 'karat'. The karat is the unit used to represent the proportion of gold in the piece of jewellery. Pure gold is 24 karats but there is no 24-karat gold jewellery because pure gold is too pliable to be fashioned into any form of jewellery. Diamond jewellery is popular in 18- kt. (75% gold), 16-kt. (66.67% gold), 14-kt. (about 58% gold), and 12-kt. (50% gold).
Purity of Silver jewellery is 92.5
One particular metal which has gained much in popularity in the past ten years or so is platinum. Platinum is used frequently to make different types of costly jewellery items.
Learn about how and why different metals create different shades of color.

Metal Decoration :
Metal decorations enhance the beauty of jewellery. So after deciding the metal the designer should work on metal decoration i.e. enameling, filigree or textures or finish of metal. Whether it is matt finish, Florentine or satin finish; so many types of finishes are in vogue which can be used. Hammering textures is a recent trend. Polishing and plating of jewellery is important to decide before manufacturing. Whether the jewellery piece would look elegant in rhodium or antique look?
If vacuum electroplating is conducted on nickel or brass metal-like color on the surface thereof, such as golden yellow color to appear like gold, or light gray to appear like platinum, etc.
By the above steps, metal inlayed jewellery is produced the quality and value of which are greatly enhanced. Different type of work is done by different 'karigar' such as gold jewellery is crafted by a goldsmith called desi karigar, diamond jewellery made by Bengali karigar. Jewellery can be hand made or made by casting process, it depends on its design and type of metal decoration

Choice of Gemstones :
Jewellery is a wonderful accessory which can be designed in a wide range of metals and gemstones. These gemstones can be used in different sizes, colors, and varieties. Diamond is the most beautiful gem material for your jewellery design.

Diamonds : When using diamond and other color gemstones in jewellery, there are four aspects that must be remembered. These are the cut, the color, the carat, and the clarity of the diamond. Of these four the most important is the carat weight of the diamond. As the weight and size increase the price becomes higher. The facets of the gemstone should be balanced which is called symmetry. And finally, the cuts should be made through specific lines to avoid chipping off the surface. Gemstones should be clear. No inclusion in it. Otherwise it will reduce their price. Jewellery lasts for long years so try to use good quality of gemstones whether they are precious or semi-precious.
Looks may be deceptive. If you are not careful enough to choose a good quality gemstone, you might end up with poor quality.
Gemstones either depend on customer choice or the look of jewellery. Some time clients choose them and like to wear them according to their planetary requirements.

Setting of Gemstones :
It is very important after choosing gemstones to decide as to what type of settings would you choose.
Some are secured into their settings by first cutting a seat in which the stone rests and then covering the stone from above with some additional metal. This traps the gemstone so that it cannot move down or up. There are several options on how to secure a gemstone into a mounting. The most common are Prong Setting, Grain Set etc. Other styles are Rub Over, Pave, Channel, Illusion, Star Setting, Invisible Setting, Suspension Setting and Countersunk. The Prong Setting is the most frequently seen method of setting colored gems and diamonds. A variety of other methods are also used to set gems in precious metals. So carefully choosing stone setting is an important feature of jewellery designing and making.

Link, Clip & Clasp:
When design comes to the making stage, it will be easy to manufacture if we show proper links, clips and clasp in our design. The designer should use them as an integral part of the jewellery. Check out jewellery designs whether links, clips or clasps have been used. As clips or clasps are essential jewellery components, they should be properly placed. If you design a chain to make it faxable, draw the correct number of joints or loops within certain distance. A jewellery piece such as a bracelet, necklace, earrings, or other ornamental item require a proper locking system. These locks may contain some designs over them. If you want to fix a brooch to a dress the best way is to fasten it with a pin-needle that can be fixed or pinned on a clasp. There are different kinds of variants to this version to keep the broochs needle from coming out. If you want to fix an earring to the lobe of the ear, a threaded hinge is used as a stop. "U" type clip is the most simple way to wear an earring with the ears pierced and it is the best for use both for aesthetic reason and for a good balance. Some most commonly used closings are the lateral hinge closing, keg closing, box closing, spring clip and a spring ring closing.

Customer's Budget:
Jewellery has no value limit but if the customer orders it for a particular amount, then we have to design our product accordingly keeping in mind that limit. Just imagine that a customer requires a piece for fifty thousand rupees, then the piece should be fifty thousand rupees after charging our fee. We must mind profit and cost both. So it must be very clear that price of ordered piece should not exceed the customer's budget.

Certification:
A Designer must know about certification of jewellery and gem stones, Hallmarking of gold, gemstone and diamond purity certification will build your trust and lasting relationship with your customer. It is a guarantee of authenticity and quality. So if you are the designer cum manufacturer make your jewellery certified.

Packaging :
If we are designing a beautiful jewellery piece and getting it manufactured also we must think about a designer Jewellry box too for it. It will show a designer's complete aesthetic sense. Many designers don't realize the importance of packaging of their jewellery in the right way. A suitable jewellery box will enhance the jewellery's look and also help to keep the jewellery piece safe. The designer can print his specific brand over it. It'll create his good image, but mind it the design of the package fits in with your product range.
Jewellery is unlike clothing or other accessories. The value of costly jewellery does not depreciate early, so your jewellery piece should be durable and last for a long... longer time. Proper planning before designing and making any jewellery piece will make your work easy and it will save your time and cost too.