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Designing to follow fashion : With so much
change and so many variables to consider, most jewellery designers agree that
it is vital to under stand the holding lifestyle practices of the customer,
viit jewellery stores across the country, national and international fairs,
'fashion weeks' and travel to observe fair 'fashion weeks' and travel to observe
what people wear in terms of their garments and accessories. All these provide
valuable inputs to a designer. Puri says, "Its important to watch the
fashion segment for the colours, styling and detailing on the garments. You
need to study the neckline that are in vogue to decide the profile of the
neck-wear that you are going to design". Kurian illustrates this by saying.
"A good example of fashion trends affecting jewellery design was the
layered look. A few season back, all the big design houses were suddenly wrapping
up their models in many layers of different materials. This concept took off
in the jewellery industry like a rage with design featuring many different
beaded necklaces and bangles at the same time".
Nata stresses that a designer has to also keep in mind the wearability of
the piece while being conscious of trends. She notes that Indian have traditionally
preferred emeralds and rubies for the colour in their jewellery but that of
late, a variety of colours and types are in vogue.
Today Indian want topaz, tour-maline and even synthetics if they give the
look they want.
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But even after factoring all the variables, most designers will tell you that
there is no such thing as a single, homogenous India jewellery market. Geographic
location and ethnic differences break it up into distinctly different markets
with differing tastes. Mantri says that when one designs for the Indian market,
one has to definitely keep these aspects in mind. But says Vyas, "The
contemporary jewellery segment responds closely to the changes in the global
market and the consumer base is not wholly segmented by geographic location
or ethnic groupings. Inte4rnationally, companies and marketers are segmenting
consumers in the context of their attitudes and values tastes and preferences,
lifestyles and living pattern".
However, Pallavi Dudeja Foley, who has designed many collections for the leading
jewellery brand Tanishq, thinks there is a specific, identifiable customer
base in cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Hyderabad and Bangalore, that is more willing
to experiment with new designs and concepts.
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Puri adds that Delhi Definitely is very quick to catch on to trends which
are bold and visible. Bombay is more style oriented where people are more
style oriented where people are more aware of what works for them individually
and whether it units their personalities. The south tends to stay with a more
classic approach. In Chennai gems are a 'no-no' adds, Rajiv Jain.
Kurian, however, feels that though jewellery is forever evolving the underlying
essence of a particular region is always visible in it. "Look at a bride
from any particular region of India. Even the most modern north Indian bride
will shun internationa brands on hr big day and opt for culturally and traditionally
rich embellishments like Kudan jewellery while a south Indian bride would
go for temple jewellery."
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Mantri feels that Indians attach a considerable amount of emotional value
to jewellery though this does not affect the design concepts of fashion jeweller.
According to Foley, there is a very smal segment emerging of highly fashion
conscious individuals who are ready to experiement with tradition. There's
also another segment of people who are artistically inclined, and prefer handcrafted
or artistically appealing jewellery. And then there are colectors who go for
customized pieces that are unique in design material, craftsanshp or technique.
Fashion designer empathize with the drift and thus are exploring more and
more possibilities in terms of integrating regional tastes with the fashion
direction of today.